The Upper Murray

We started our Murray-Darling adventure in Khancoban, which is the start point for The Great River Road trail, that covers the Upper Murray. Seated at the foot of the Snowy Mountains, Khancoban was established in the 1960s to house workers from the Snowy Hydro Scheme.

The drive in was picturesque, as we wound our way through the mountains after leaving the freeway at Gundagai, passing through the Batlow orchards.

Our campsite was alongside the Khancoban pondage, a beautiful peaceful location; until we discovered we were sharing it with about 50 year 7 school kids on camp.

The first night we had the obligatory settling in fire, and then enjoyed the stars. So many, and so many Satellites as well!

We were looking directly across the fire at the Southern Cross.

The following morning we gave our new inflatable kayak a test run on the Khancoban Pondage. It was about an hour paddling and exploring, whilst also testing out the e-fin that gives it a bit of of a boost. It all went great until we hit a submerged stick/log that tangled itself in the power cable, and made paddling back twice as hard.

We read the warning signs after the fact

After a picnic lunch we headed out for another paddle and were much more wary of submerged trees. And then spent the remainder of the afternoon with a quick exploration of the town (it’s very small).

Next, we were on the Great River Road trail. First stop was Corryong, famous for the Poem – The Man From Snowy River.

After a visit to the local Museum and a coffee and sausage roll, we headed to the Towong race track – its claim to fame was the grandstand used in the movie Pharlap.

They were setting up for their big race day whilst we were there, the Towong Cup, and we were very tempted to book in but it was all booked out. Would have been a fun day!

The next few stops were information sites and lookouts along the trail that typically had sculptures of local fauna.

Murray Cod at Tintaldra
River crossing at Tintaldra
Bogon Moth at Jim Newman Lookout
Lace Monitor – Pine Mountain
Pine Mountain, with native Black Cypress Pines, keeps the Murray flowing north.
We crossed the border between NSW and Victoria many times. We are really not sure what state we are in anymore

After a lunch stop in Walwa, we arrived at our next camp (across the border) mid afternoon; a free camp along the Murray, right next door to the Jingellic Pub. Perfect!

There was money pinned to the roof of the pub, I didn’t dare ask how it got there as I’ve previously been caught out and had to hand over cash.
The river was flowing strongly after some recent local storms
The old bridge pylons. The pub had photos of these and our campsites under water in the 2011 floods

It was a great camp area and very busy due to it being a public holiday in VIC, along with the big raceday in Towong. They were running a free bus from Jingellic to the races for the campers.

The next morning we packed and headed to the only shop in town, a general store and cafe, for breakfast. It was packed, with everyone frocked up for the races. Most of them were driving utes, 4-5 per car, with eskies and swags in the back. It was going to be a big day out.

We then crossed the border back to Victoria and rejoined the trail.

Wedgetailed eagle sculpture looking ominously at Bel. So majestic, we saw two as we drove into Walwa.
The recent bush fires had ravaged the area, but re-growth was already well established
The fires must have been terrifying as they raged through the mountains
The Murray Grey breed of cattle was founded in the region

Once we reached the edge of Lake Hume it was amazing to see the river travel across the flood plain. The water level was very low so you could see the natural course of the river of old as you head towards the dam wall.

The start of Lake Hume. The water was very low due to a dry winter
The Wymah Ferry. Out of action due to the water being so low.

The finish point for the Upper Murray trail was Bethanga Bridge, the crossing point of Lake Hume, heading to Albury/Wodonga.

There was much more water here, and a lot more activity. Particularly speedboats with doof doof music blaring, as well as jet skis terrifying everyone. We had a site booked it the caravan park but once we saw it and the activity we realised it wasn’t for us and hit the road in search of another free camp, and the next stage of our journey.

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