Cape York – A pilgrimage to The Tip

From Lakefield Bel and I made the long pilgrimage to the northern tip of Australia – Cape York Peninsula. Over a 6 day period we travelled endless dirtroads, dips, creek crossings, and corrugations, occasionally broken up by a surprise paved section.

Day 1 – Archer River

The first main crossing was Hann River Crossing. The water was nice and low so it was very easy.

We then passed the white Lily ponds 

before arriving at Musgrave Station for coffee – and they had a real coffee machine – yay!!

From Musgrave we headed up the PDR (Peninsular Development Road). The roads were mostly in very good condition, having been freshly graded after the wet season, so we made better time than expected, but their were still plenty of rough sections to remind us what it is usually like. 
Coen – was our next stop for lunch, fuel and a VB in the local pub before we did our final leg of the day to Archer River. The camp grounds at Archer River were surprisingly nice, very open and grassy with the massive added benefit of having a beautiful croc free creek to swim in. 

After a swim we went back to camp for dinner before heading up to the pub for drinks and footy. The nice thing about all the campgrounds up here is that they have a pub too!

Day 2/3 – Weipa 

The next morning we were up and out early and on our way to Weipa. We were getting used to the roads so starting to travel a bit faster except when road trains came through – your only option was to stop as the dust would take a couple of minutes to clear before you could see again. 

And the dust was everywhere and in everything. Fine red dust like talcum powder that turned into paint when wet! It covered the car and trailer and just stuck to you every time you touched anything. It was like a lesson on watching how germs spread. 

The drive all the way up was marked by endless termite mounds, some looked like castles, while others were big mounds. The big thing you notice is how they get larger and larger the further you go north. 

Cows were also a common site along the roads as you drive through large station, big Brahman Bulls, and Brahman cross steers. Most of it is unfenced so another tricky obstacle to dodge. 

Another 250km down and we arrived in Weipa on the western coast of the cape. We booked in for two nights into the only caravan park. It was our last chance to restock supplies and get treated water, and being a Sunday everything was closed so we needed the extra day. 

The following morning we did some last minute maintenance before getting supplies. The first thing we bought was cold and flu tablets – I had had a cold for 4 days and couldn’t get them anywhere due to restrictions on selling them up here (they’re very popular apparently). 

Once back at camp we noticed an old neighbour had moved in next to us. A family from Port Macquarie that we met in Cooktown. By now everyone was getting to know everyone. Another group of three camper trailers near us had also camped with us at Kalpower, and behind us were guys in Apollo pop tops that we had seen previously. There were limited places to stay, and everyone’s headed to the same place so it had to happen. Apparently we are very well known due to the big yellow Yak on the roof!

Unfortunately the Port guys had just returned to Weipa after having to turn around due to a puncture. They were going to head up again the next day. I immediately took more pressure out of the tyres. 
That evening we took advantage of being on the west coast and watched the sunset over the water. Very beautiful. And after some quick lessons over the phone from my photography mate, Adrian Rudman, I was able to get some photos as well – thanks buddy I owe you a beer (will now know if he reads blog).

Day 4 – Bramwell Station

The next day we did a short 200km drive to Bramwell station, a fully functioning cattle station that you can camp on. Great camp grounds again and their own pub. 
To our good fortune it was opening night of their new pub so they were having a celebration dinner with live music – awesome.

At the dinner the host gave us a talk on the history of the station which was fascinating. We also got to meet a new couple Kath and Kev who were also from Sydney. They had seen our car in Cairns when we dropped it in for service!
Day 5 – Punsand Bay

The final leg was a long 250km to Punsand Bay that took 7 hours all up (with some nice stops). 

The first was Fruitbat Falls, that ranks as one of the all time best places I have had a swim – just stunning. 

We stayed there for over an hour swimming around the waterhole, under the waterfalls, and soaking in the spa pools – I didn’t want to leave. 

Next we arrived at the Jardine River ferry crossing. It’s $129 for a return ferry across the river into Aboriginal land. It is all operated by the Aboriginal owners and includes your access fee to their land. 

The ferry itself is very small and rickety and the guy driving it was quite entertaining, but we managed to make it to the other side. 

The next leg was to Bamaga an aboriginal township. We picked up some lunch and fuel before heading up the final dirt track to Punsand Bay arriving at 2.30 in the afternoon. We set up camp, took a quick look at the beautiful croc infested beach and headed straight for the pool. 

Day 6 – The Tip

The next morning we jumped in the car and drove the final 20km to the tip, before doing the short walk out along the Peninsula to the Northern most point in Australia. The views were just amazing. Looking out over azure waters across to the Torres Straight Islands. And then we were there, we had made it! Such a great feeling, and one we just wanted to soak up in the beautiful surrounds.